Solar Flare & EMP Threats

Solar Flare & EMP Threats

Don Hodge for 4^th Triage

In collaboration with Will Stewart

So why is there interest about solar flares and EMP? Are these credible potential problems/threats or are they the next fear monger’s “Global Warming” scare? Are they coming soon to a planet near you?

It is worth noting that while a terrorist EMP attack is categorized as “IF it will happen” (hopefully something we will prevent), a Solar Flare or Coronal Mass Ejection (CME) is a case of “WHEN will it happen”. And how big will it be.

Here’s an extract from an article (6) (italics added):

Last week we were attacked by the sun. For real. Huge solar eruptions sent a blast of radiation toward Earth. Thankfully, the planet’s natural magnetic shield warded off the worst effects. Life went on uninterrupted.

Here’s an extract from a great article from 10-26-2010 in USA Today (1):

“The sky erupts. Cities darken, food spoils and homes fall silent. Civilization collapses.

End-of-the-world novel? A video game? Or could such a scenario loom in America's future?”

Here’s an extract from another article (2):

“Did you know a solar flare can make your toilet stop working?”

That is the surprising results of a study “by the National Academy of Sciences entitled Severe Space Weather Events—Understanding Societal and Economic Impacts. In the 132-page report, experts detailed what might happen to our modern, high-tech society in the event of a "super solar flare" followed by an extreme geomagnetic storm. They found that almost nothing is immune from space weather—not even the water in your bathroom.”

Here’s an extract from another article (10):

“There’s a direct relationship between how technologically sophisticated a society is and how badly it could be hurt. That’s the meta-message of the report. “

Here’s an extract from an article by Ken Timmerman (1a) (Italics and underlining added): “Within 12 months of an EMP attack or a massive solar flare, between two-thirds to 90 percent of the U.S. population would perish” from lack of electricity, Pry said, quoting the conclusions from the EMP Commission's two public reports.

Okay. Are these a legitimate cause for some concern and preventative preparation? NASA, NOAA, the National Academy of Sciences, and several commissions created to examine these possibilities think so. Makes sense since electricity is the lynchpin to continuing our hi-tech Western Civilization. Without it for even a week, there would be a lot of suffering and economic loss. In summary, Bad Things happen. If a large enough area has the electric grid damaged and/or destroyed, recovery efforts will be severely delayed. If the damage covers a continent or more, recovery will probably take years (or decades) rather than months. A report suggests that a “super solar flare” could black out the electricity for 130 million people in the USA (2). Another report pegs the recovery period at 4 to 10 years for such an event (10). NOTE: our research causes us to feel those to estimates are low and ignore some things. These estimates require an event of very large magnitude, but ignore the disruption such an event would cause to any potential rescue/recovery effort.

Unfortunately our society doesn’t have much margin for error before people are at risk. Basic systems effected would include: water, sewage, pumping gasoline/diesel, long distance transportation (and our just-in-time delivery system), heating, air conditioning, refrigeration, manufacturing, medical services/hospitals, phone/TV/radio/short wave communications, lighting, and the thousands of things that use electricity. Did I mention the electric grid overloads can burn out and damage large transformers (which are essential for moving power over long distances) beyond repair? Current waiting time to produce a new one may be up to a year. Did I mention that EMP (which can also be produced from a solar flare) fries unprotected electronics? You can protect some electronics by simple Faraday cages – if the device is within the cage when the EMP occurs.

When thinking about the possible impacts on your family’s lives, please consider three things: 1) almost all consumables are not produced or grown locally (or within that mythical 100 miles); 2) consumable items must be brought in frequently to your location – some, like food, several times a week; and 3) if the emergency is long enough, no matter how much you’ve stored you will run out of whatever you can’t grow, raise, or make.

Here’s some background info. The sun has a basic cycle of sunspots averaging 11.1-years bundled in pairs or 22.2 years with a plus/minus variable (6). This gives rise to some debate as to exactly when the next peak or maximum will occur. Estimates range from September 2012 through May 2014 (see charts at reference 9). Solar Flares may occur at any time but there seem to be more and larger ones at the end of a cycle. Sunspots are cooler areas (which look like dark spots) where magnetic lines of force break through the surface of the sun. These lines of force are twisted like spaghetti because the sun’s equator completes a revolution in 25 days while the poles take 35 days. Longer solar cycles of up to 85 years complicate precision even farther. They have resulted in prolonged periods of warming (e.g. Middle Age Warming Period, 850-1300 AD) and cooling (Little Ice Age, from 1450s into 1820).

Geerts and Linacre (8) note “Intuitively one may assume the that total solar irradiance would decrease as the number of (optically dark) sunspots increased. However direct satellite measurements of irradiance have shown just the opposite to be the case. This means that more sunspots deliver more energy to the atmosphere, so that global temperatures should rise.” This confirms what James Burke said (from on top of a glacier) in episode 6 of the 1976 Connections “It’s very simple, less sunspots means less heat.  Nobody knows why. But that event kicked off the medieval Ice age.”

This from Randy Mann’s article 4-9-2009 in The Spokane-Review (7):

“As I’ve mentioned in past articles, activity on our sun has been minimal over the last year. Within the last 30 days, there have been no sunspots visible. With few or no storms on the sun, the energy output has decreased about 0.1 percent. Although the percentage seems insignificant, global temperatures have cooled from the peak in the late 1990s. …

This current time frame of solar inactivity is lasting longer than expected. The last time our sun went on a long period of inactivity was during a 70-year span called the “Maunder Minimum.” This occurred between 1645 and 1715, which likely contributed to The Little Ice Age.”

Hence the Little Ice Age was caused/extended by 3 periods of minimum sunspot activity. (NOTE for what it’s worth we are in another minimum and may be heading into decreasing temperatures until 2040 - 2041.)

Briefly summarizing – a Solar Flare may result in billions or trillions of tons of plasma thrown out from the sun. If that CME plasma is headed our way, the main effect will show up on Earth in 3 or 4 days. There are three main areas of concern: the long wave radiation/particles creating Ground Induced Currents damaging electric grids worldwide; the short wave radiation or EMP after the long wave dissipates and is spent; and a concern raised at a Veterinarians Conference in Atlanta (September 2010) about potential mutations of viruses and parasites.

Three examples (in descending severity) that we have recorded are: the decade long lead up to the September 1859 Carrington Event; a significant 1921 event (about 50% of the 1859 event); and the March 9-13, 1989 event (about 33% of the 1859 event) which knocked down the power grid (within 90 seconds) leaving 6 million without power for 9 hours in Quebec Province and parts of the US. Briefly, the 1859 event: 1) induced electrical currents in telegraph wires which caused some offices to burn down; and 2) caused some electrically activated chemicals like dynamite to explode in various places. CMEs put the whole world’s electric grids, electronics (which are much more vulnerable today), satellites, communications, GPS, air travel, and many other systems at risk.

I want to emphasize again “There’s a direct relationship between how technologically sophisticated a society is and how badly it could be hurt. That’s the meta-message of the report.” (10)

An excellent novel exploring an EMP attack on the US and the aftermath is “One Second After” by William Forstchen.

“…Both public and private sectors need to pay more attention to “hardening” truly vital infrastructure to make it more resistant and resilient to natural and manmade threats.” (6)

Reference Links

Here are some great articles we’ve found that should be very helpful in providing background on these extremely dangerous threats to the world.

(1) For the best overview I’ve found so far, check out the link listed below to Dan Vergano’s USA Today article from 10/26/2010. It has some nice graphics also.

Electromagnetic pulse impact far and wide by Dan Vergano, USA TODAY http://www.usatoday.com/tech/science/2010 -10-26-emp_N.htm

Key extract from article:

“The sky erupts. Cities darken, food spoils and homes fall silent. Civilization collapses.

End-of-the-world novel? A video game? Or could such a scenario loom in America's future?”

(1a) Murkowski Blocks Effort to Protect US Power Grid

Thursday, 14 Oct 2010 06:50 PM By: Ken Timmerman

(Ed. Note: She lost in 2010 primary and reneged on promise to support the primary winner. Such integrity from a Senator. This is about the stalled 2010 bipartisan legislation.)

http://www.newsmax.com/KenTimmerman/lisa-murkowski-emp-energy/2010/10/14/id/373768

Key extract from article: (Italics and underlining added)

“Within 12 months of an EMP attack or a massive solar flare, between two-thirds to 90 percent of the U.S. population would perish” from lack of electricity, Pry said, quoting the conclusions from the EMP Commission's two public reports.

(2) Severe Space Weather-Social and Economic Impacts (NASA Science News article 1-21-2009)

http://science.nasa.gov/science-news/science-at-nasa/2009/21jan_severespaceweather/

Key extract from article:

“Did you know a solar flare can make your toilet stop working?”

That is the surprising results of a study “by the National Academy of Sciences entitled Severe Space Weather Events—Understanding Societal and Economic Impacts. In the 132-page report, experts detailed what might happen to our modern, high-tech society in the event of a "super solar flare" followed by an extreme geomagnetic storm. They found that almost nothing is immune from space weather—not even the water in your bathroom.”

(3) Here is the complete NASA 2008 Conference Report (published January 2009)

Severe Space Weather Events – Understanding Societal and Economic Impacts.

http://books.nap.edu/catalog.php?record_id=12507

(4) Countering the EMP Threat: The Role of Missile Defense, a 2009 report from the Independent Working Group by Henry F. Cooper and Robert L. Pfaltzgraff, Jr. http://www.ifpa.org/pdf/IWGWhitePaper.pdf

(5) Space Forecasts, Solar Storms Report Coming Soon to Save the Power Grid

By Boonsri Dickinson November 3, 2010

http://www.greentechmedia.com/articles/read/space-forecasts-solar-storms-report-coming-soon-to-save-the-power-grid/

(6) Heratige Foundation blog article “End Of The World … For Real” -

http://blog.heritage.org/2010/08/16/end-of-the-world-for-real/

Posted August 16th, 2010 at 3:03pm in Protect America

Key extracts fron article: (Italics added for emphasis)

Last week we were attacked by the sun. For real. Huge solar eruptions sent a blast of radiation toward Earth. Thankfully, the planet’s natural magnetic shield warded off the worst effects. Life went on uninterrupted.

“…Both public and private sectors need to pay more attention to “hardening” truly vital infrastructure to make it more resistant and resilient to natural and manmade threats.”

(7) Solar Maximum Expected in 2012 by Randy Mann 4-9-2009 Spokane-Review

http://www.spokesman.com/stories/2009/apr/09/solar-maximum-expected-in-2012/

Key extract fron article:

As I’ve mentioned in past articles, activity on our sun has been minimal over the last year. Within the last 30 days, there have been no sunspots visible. With few or no storms on the sun, the energy output has decreased about 0.1 percent. Although the percentage seems insignificant, global temperatures have cooled from the peak in the late 1990s. …

This current time frame of solar inactivity is lasting longer than expected. The last time our sun went on a long period of inactivity was during a 70-year span called the “Maunder Minimum.” This occurred between 1645 and 1715, which likely contributed to The Little Ice Age

(8) Sunspots and Climate by B. Geerts and E. Linacre (12/1997)

http://www-das.uwyo.edu/~geerts/cwx/notes/chap02/sunspots.html

(9) Solar Cycle Progression – NOAA/Space Weather Prediction Center

http://www.swpc.noaa.gov/SolarCycle/

(10) The 2012 Apocalypse — And How to Stop It by Brandon Keim, 4/17/2009

http://www.wired.com/wiredscience/2009/04/2012storms/

Key extract fron article:

There’s a direct relationship between how technologically sophisticated a society is and how badly it could be hurt. That’s the meta-message of the report.

The Christmas Prepper

It's Christmas and you still have only half of your list done, What is a good prepper to do?
I know. I know. We should have prepared, DUH.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I seem to be hard wired to remember my list on the 23rd.

The recent snow started this ball rolling for me. Last February a neighbor was snowed in so I took over some of my Freeze dried food.  That small gift got them thinking about how practical it is to prepare.

So here is a short list if you are stuck for a Christmas gift for your favorite prepper, Or maybe someone that's still on the fence.
While I'm on the subject; why stop at Christmas? I made it a new years resolution to send prepper items for every occasion for the new year.

Here is a sampling of the of items that might just jog your thinking.



DVD – John Jeavon’s “Grow Biointensive: A Beginner’s Guide in 8 Easy Sessions”
    Filmed at Ecology Action’s Research Farm.  $20. from Bountiful Gardens
    bountiful@sonic.net    (707) 459-6410  9 am – 4 pm PST M-F

Book – “The Resilient Gardner”  by Carol Deppe   $29.95 from Bountiful Gardens
    bountiful@sonic.net    (707) 459-6410  9 am – 4 pm PST M-F
     No gasoline, electricity, water?  How did peasants cope w/ climate change in the
    12th century?  Bad health limiting your gardening?  Carol offers creative, practical
solutions.  She lists crops to provide a balanced diet that are easy to process and
store.  Also recipes to provide great taste.

Seed packets – Easy Heirloom Collection   $26.50 from Bountiful Gardens
    bountiful@sonic.net    (707) 459-6410  9 am – 4 pm PST M-F
    Popular varieties and easy to grow for beginners.  13 packets include string beans,
beets, broccoli, carrot, corn, kale, lettuce, peas, sweet pepper, summer squash,
winter squash, sunflower and tomato

Book – “The New Self-Sufficient Gardner”  by John Seymour (2008)  
$19.95 from Bountiful Gardens
    bountiful@sonic.net    (707) 459-6410  9 am – 4 pm PST M-F
     Updated classic for container gardening up to the 25-acre farmer.


You can make a difference for someone even if it's a book or a single Can of Freeze dried food. Who knows maybe that one item will make all the difference.


Merry Christmas to One and All
From Will and Don

Helpful hint; Eye wear.

Goggles or safety glasses is an Item I strongly recommend for everyone to have with them in a disaster or chaotic situation.

For those that need them there are Bifocal safety glasses. Even surplus centers have them.

For those that have to wear glasses; It is a good idea to keep the previous pair at a minimum.

In a chaotic situation you may not be able to get a new pair.

It is even better to get a pair of the heavy duty sports glasses. They are much more durable than standard glasses and can be used as safety glasses in a pinch. They are designed to stay on with vigorous exercise.  In a disaster they could be invaluable.

If you are unable to get sports glasses for any reason. You need to consider getting standard glasses that are durable and you need to have headband style strap to keep them on during vigorous activity.

A pair of safety goggles or sunglasses that can be worn over your glasses is a very good idea.

This will protect the prescription lenses and that is an additional measure of keeping you glasses on and reducing the chances of damage or loss of the glasses as well as an additional measure of protection for your eyes.

Those that wear contact lenses should consider this seriously. In any disaster scenario you will have contaminants or irritants that you do not want on your hands let alone in your eyes.

You won't be as likely to get sterile saline or distilled water in a chaotic situation. If you have a lot of this stockpiled you will have to consider the impact this will have on what you can carry with you.

If the situation is unsettled long enough you may run out and not be able to obtain more.

You need to consider keeping several sets of glasses yourselves.

I will post other hints regarding other assistive devices as we progress through this Blog.

Will

Nifty nugget 04. A Cheap and effective fallout meter.

A very inexpensive fallout meter based on the Kearney Fallout Meter.
We have tested and used a Kearney Fallout Meter (from the Original Oak-ridge design by Dr. Kearney and Dr. Edward Teller)
The KFM design is very accurate and requires no batteries or any other high tec parts.
We haven't personally tested this kit. (http://www.baproducts.com/asccustompages/products.asp?ProductID=248) ( below) It is worth a try given it's price.

http://www.baproducts.com/asccustompages/products.asp?ProductID=248

The Basic design of the Kearney meter is quite functional and durable.  It is well worth the peace of mind it provides.

This kit comes pre-assembled. however, you are paying top dollar for an assembled and tested product
http://www.nitro-pak.com/kfm-radiation-meter
This is quite similar to the kit we tested.

We have no financial interest in either of these companies and receive no monies nor any other consideration on these products.

Links for these plans are available online free of charge.  We will be posting several of these links in our links shortly

WS

Nifty Nugget 03

By Far one of the Most Useful Items I have Ever Found.

Is Bubble pack with Foil covering both sides of the bubbles. It is nearly 90% heat retention.

One of the first tests of it that I saw was a tube / Sleeve of this stuff. If you could keep your arm in it for more than 20 seconds you could win a prize.

I don't believe anyone collected on that.

The name brand I know is:

Reflectix It comes in several sizes. 4' x 25' R-3.7 Double Reflective Foil Insulation is by far the most useful. I keep it in the trunk of my car If I need to Change a tire in the snow or the rain.

I have cut it to fit my windshield. I have used it as an emergency sleeping bag.

Local Cost in WV/ PA Area

$30.22 for 4' x 25'

You should check it out.

Preparedness Part 4 – Security Considerations

Preparedness Part 4 – Security Considerations

Don Hodge for 4^thTriage

In collaboration with Will Stewart

This is a controversial and very emotional area. Emotion and panic can kill you. Many people are horrified at the thought of pointing a firearm at another human being. Many feel that civilized behavior comes from gun control. Many point to the daily news and reject gun control as hazardous to one’s personal health. Unfortun-ately criminals often use our humanity against us. This is a decision you will have to make – even by refusing to discuss the issue – which may have a large impact on you and your family.

If you don’t want to have firearms in your security plans, consider a sturdy walking stick 3’ to 4’ long - which is quite useful against animals as well as people.

Another alternative to firearms is the air rifle or air pistol. These use compressed air to fire a pellet (Commonly .177 and .22 calibers. The .20 is less standard with fewer options ). They provide some protection against and can be used for hunting small game, birds, and animals up to the size of a medium dog. Most are single shot. Use models with cockling levers rather than compressed air cartridges. See considerations for firearms below.

Otherwise if firearms or air guns are not a part of your security package, then good luck and proceed to the next part.

If you choose to carry weapons or firearms, you must keep tight control on your emotions. Human life is very precious. Fear and anger are not excuses. Don’t make a bad situation worse. You will be held accountable for your actions later.

That said, it doesn’t make sense to do all that work to save your life and your family’s from a disaster, then let them be murdered.

Firearms and Security.

As you debate this issue with yourself some things to consider are:

1. Federal law prohibits state and local officials from taking your firearms during a disaster.
2. The police and authorities will be busy. Even in the best of times the police react in minutes after being notified of a problem, criminals act in seconds.
3. Criminals are called such because they choose not to obey the law. Any law. Perhaps they may act differently in a disaster. It seems unlikely.
4. Desperate, scared people will do things that would have horrified them even just a few days before.
5. To you it doesn’t matter if the six guys determined to take your vehicle (or break into your home) and take your supplies (and/or kill you) are thugs or just scared – the outcome is the same.
6. Most religions and moral codes allow for self-defense.
7. Most of us are not 6’6”, 250 lbs, and martial arts experts able to twist 20 thugs into pretzel-like shapes – without breaking a sweat.

If you choose to include firearms into your disaster supplies, please consider:

1. Firearms, like cars or any tool, are really dangerous to you if you don’t know how to properly use them.
2. Safety courses are available at low cost or free from the NRA, shooting clubs, and some gun shops.
3. Like everything else, safety and skill come from practice, practice, practice.
4. Skill with firearms does not exist automatically just because you have a firearm. It takes work and practice, practice, practice.
5. Some people – even trained military (and perhaps you) – hesitate to point a firearm at another person and pull the trigger. If the life of your family or your life is involved, hesitation could be tragic and fatal.
6. Criminals know that many people will hesitate or can’t hit a moving target.
7. Some police and trainers recommend overcoming this hesitation by loading the first two chambers of a revolver with bird shot (called shot shells – not shotgun shells). The bird shot is unlikely to seriously hurt someone. If someone keeps coming after two shots, they mean deadly harm to you. After two shots, it is easy to fire the third – and fourth, etc. Aim for the chest.
8. Different firearms - like hammers, wrenches, and other tools – are designed to do particular jobs well (and will do other jobs less well).

• Shotguns – designed primarily for hunting birds and defense inside the home – effective to 25 yards (with slugs in a slug barrel up to 100 yards and effective for hunting large animals). The smaller the gage the greater the kick/recoil. 12 and 20 gauges are most commonly available.

The .410 (The Smallest commonly available Shotgun) has the least kick (Recoil) and can be used by young children and smaller adults. Some have the added benefit of being able to use common .45 hand gun ammunition.

• Both pump and automatic loading shotguns are available.
• Semi-Automatic (one squeeze of the trigger gives one shot) handguns – used for personal defense (because it’s cramped or you must use your hands and can’t carry a rifle). May have more rounds than a revolver.
• Revolvers – since you can rotate the cylinder and select the chamber you fire, much more versatile. Usually 5 or 6 chambers which can be loaded with bird shot, special ammunition, standard, and that load to stop a bull.
• Hunting rifles – many different calibers for many different sizes of animals. Not suited for combat. Parts will break under the number of shots in a firefight – barrels will lose accuracy and even droop. Usually bolt-action as most states limit hunting with semi-automatic rifles.
• Battle (I.e. Assault) rifles - .223 (5.56 mm NATO), .308 (7.62 x 51 NATO), 7.62 x 39 Russian (SKS, AK-47) are the common calibers. The .223 is effective to 165 yards and has such low recoil that a child can use it effectively. The .308 NATO, a much heavier bullet, can punch through brush and knock a man down with one hit at 500 yards. The 7.62 x 39 Russian is accurate at short ranges and has impact (if you hit anything) at 500 yards. Magazines contain 20 or 30 rounds. Semi-Automatic.
• Note: what are commonly called Assault rifles are only Semi-Automatic look-alikes. A true Assault rifle has the option of fully automatic fire.

9. 95% of all pistol gunfights occur at 7 yards (21 feet) or less.
10. The goal is not to kill, but to stop life threatening actions.
11. Stopping power (in pistols) against humans depends largely on the diameter or caliber of the bullet. The larger the caliber the more stopping power. Hence a .45 has more stopping power than a .22, a 9 mm (.355), and a .38. That is why hollow points which spread on contact boost the stopping power of a caliber.
12. Both the .38 and the .357 are actually a diameter of .357 with the difference being that a .357 has about twice the powder in the cartridge and about twice the force. You can fire the less expensive .38 cartridges in a .357 handgun. Never, NEVER fire .357 cartridges in a .38 handgun.
13. For reliable stopping power in a pistol use a .357 and larger caliber (10 mm, 40 S&W, .41, .44, .45, etc.). .38s and lesser calibers need boosts in stopping power by using special ammunition (like Federal’s Hydra-shoks® ).
14. While the largest bear killed in North America was shot with a .22, the .22 does NOT have stopping power. There is a case of a man going berserk and murdering the 3 people with him. During the process, the victims shot him 18 times in the chest with .22 LRs. He still murdered them and then walked several miles to the hospital – where he died 3 days later.
15. In any situation you are thinking about using a firearm, ask yourself “Does this situation require or merit the use of deadly force?”
16. Rules for using firearms:

• Most firearms have safeties, so keep them set on safety. Know how to take the safety off so you can shoot.
• Never bluff with an unloaded firearm. If it is serious enough to consider using a firearm, it IS serious enough to load it.
• Never point a firearm at anything you aren’t willing to shoot.
• Never shoot at anything you aren’t willing to kill.

17. Always, always ASSUME a firearm IS LOADED.
18. If you keep firearms in the house, display signs in your house that read: “All Guns In This House Are Loaded” – whether they’re loaded or not.
19. Teach firearms safety to all family members and visiting children.

Recommendations for the general public:

• a revolver (.357 or a .38 with Hydra-shock ammo – include shot shells for poisonous snakes)
• a pump shotgun (More reliable than the semi automatic and requires less maintenance.)
• the addition of a hunting rifle of large caliber or an assault rifle could be useful in chaotic situations - possibly a Ruger Mini-14 (the popular .223 caliber, rugged, inexpensive, and a child could handle it) or an AK-47.
• When choosing a firearm The availability of ammunition should be a high priority. The most common ammunition (that is the most produced and greatest quantity such as ammunition used by military and police) is the best choice. For rifles the .223, 7.62X39, and .308 are the most produced in the world. For handguns .9mm NATO (9X19), .45, .38 and .357 Magnum.

A more in depth article on Firearms specifications and terminology will be posted shortly.

Preparedness Part 6 – Food Management Considerations

Preparedness Part 6 – Food Management Considerations

Don Hodge for 4^thTriage

in collaboration with Will Stewart

Look if you are serious about disaster preparedness and saving money, you have to start with the concept of a “pantry”. Not a few kitchen cabinets where you hap-hazardly put contents from the grocery bags you just brought in. No, you want an organized food storage place. You need to commit to eating what you store and storing what you eat.

So you have to find the space for storing. You probably will need to add shelves. You have to protect from heat in the summer and freezing in the winter. There are many designs for shelving which save you time, space, and work. If you put your new purchases in on the same side every time and take out what you are going to use from the other side of the shelf, you’ll automatically have rotation without examining all the cans/packages to see what is oldest. That makes rotation work – without a penalty in time to do it. If you have two sets of shelves each with the output side facing each other on a common corridor, then the “harvesting” of your pantry will be that much more efficient. If you slant the shelves downward with the “in” side on top and a “lip” on the bottom (“out” side), you will save work on pushing the food forward when you add new supplies to that part of the shelf by letting gravity work for you. There are many ways to have efficiency here so put on your thinking cap.

This also means you are going to need to analyze what you like to eat and what you are eating now. You are going to have to make lists – and shop by them. Grocery stores arrange products to encourage impulse shopping. Their goal is to have you buy as much as possible – that you can pay for. Yes, they provide you a service and make it easier for you to get what you can’t grow, raise, or have the facilities to process. If you stick to carefully thought-out lists, you’ll save money. If you buy bulk containers, you’ll save money. One method for using bulk foods efficiently has been on Dr. James Dobson’s “Focus on the Family” radio program several times. This involves planning all the menus for a period (say 2 weeks or a month), breaking down each item into necessary ingredients, buying all of the ingredients, and setting aside the next day or two to prepare and cook the menu items. The final step is to place individual portions into baggies, label the contents (with date), and put in the freezer. When you are ready to eat pull the number of pouches you need for the meal, put in a pot with water, and boil for 15 minutes. Extra people at the dinner table? No sweat, pull out a few extra pouches. This can save tons of money. This saves a tremendous amount of time in daily cooking and cleaning up. Make it a joint exercise with some neighbors.

What about special sales and “targets of opportunity”? Absolutely! Particularly meats. Here again, lists (a special list of items which come up regularly on sale that you are interested in) and have capacity to store. If it’s frozen, do you have the freezer space? Chest type freezers keep cold air from draining out when you open them. A freezer or two is a great investment. Keep them in a cool place where they won’t be flooded. Have a backup generator for them. If you lose power for a few days, you can suffer a tremendous financial loss. The generator will not have to run continuously to save the contents of your freezer(s) – only a few hours at a time.

The Basic Four Survival food supply for one adult for one year is: bulk hard red winter wheat (400 lb.s), powdered milk (50 lb.s), honey (100 lb.s), and salt (8 lb.s). Use Chart 2-5 (pg 19) ”Computing Family Factor” from Stevens’ Making The Best Of Basics to calculate the total amount needed using the adult male as your base.

Adult male = 1.00; Adult female = 0.85; Teenager male = 1.40; Teenager female = 0.95; Child male = 0.95; Child female = 0.75; Infants (1-3 yrs old) = 0.50 .

Have ample supplies of any special foods needed for infants, elderly persons or persons with special dietary needs.

Store vitamins and any supplements you use. Store cooking oils (there are powder versions), salt, pepper, spices, any seasonings you use, sugar, salsas, soy sauce, tabasco, ketchup, mustard, etc. Have a large selection of comfort/stress foods - cookies, hard candy, sweetened cereals, lollipops, chocolate, cocco, coffee, tea bags, etc. Use these to reward yourself and family upon completion of some task – or as a general “pick-me-up” treat.

Include seeds for sprouting. Sprouting does not even need light. Swish water in the jar a couple times a day – then use water in soup. This gives lots of fresh greens.

Two other points about disaster preparedness that are really important: 1) be sure to have several manual can openers; and 2) COOKING INDOORS WITH FIRE CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS.

Safety and sanitation are prime considerations – especially when trained medical treatment may be difficult or impossible to get in a timely manner. Here are some very important “Do”s and “Don’t”s.

“DO”s -

• Do keep food in covered containers.
• Do keep cooking and eating utensils clean.
• Do keep garbage in closed containers and dispose of it outside.
• Do keep garbage away from animals. Composting - or burying garbage if necessary.
• Do keep your hands clean when dealing with food by washing them with soap and water that has been boiled or disinfected.
• Do discard any food that has come into contact with contaminated floodwater.
• Do discard any prepared/cooked food that has been at room temperature for two hours or more.
• Do discard any food that has an unusual odor, color, or texture

“DON’T”s -

• Don’t eat foods from cans that are swollen, dented, or corroded, even though the product may look safe to eat.
• Don’t eat any food that looks or smells abnormal, even if the can looks normal.
• Don’t use powdered formulas with treated water.
• Don’t let garbage accumulate inside (or especially at an evacuation camp) - for fire, sanitation, and wild animal reasons.

General thoughts to keep in mind -

• Thawed food usually can be eaten if it is still “refrigerator cold” (that’s 40 degrees F).
• It can be re-frozen if it still contains ice crystals.
• Commercially canned food may be eaten out of the can without warming.
• If you want to heat a commercially canned product: Remove the label; Thoroughly wash and disinfect the can. (Use a diluted solution of one part bleach to ten parts water.); rinse; and open the can before heating.
• Remember, “When in doubt, throw it out.”
• Plan out a “sample” menu for a week or two. Try substituting a week of that “emergency” menu for a week of your normal living. You’ll find some changes you want to make.

Means of cooking -

• DO NOT USE GASOLINE TO START FIRES.
• For home in times of emergency, methods include wood stoves, propane and charcoal grills, pot-belly stoves, fireplaces, candle warmers, chafing dishes, and fondue pots.
• For fueling wood stoves, fireplaces, etc. you can make “logs” out of tightly rolled newspaper, bound with wired, soaked in water and dishwashing soap in the tub, and dried. This makes the “logs” expand and burn longer.
• Some stoves are multi-fuel burning “pellets”, corn, and/or coal. Check carefully if thinking about coal as some coal burns too hot for some stoves.
• Electric hotplates (stoves, etc.) if you have a generator, solar photo voltaic, wind turbine or other means of producing electricity.
• For evacuation it is best (from weight and space considerations) to use camp, multi-fuel backpacking stoves (Coleman®, MSR®, Peak®, etc.), camp fires (be very careful you don’t start a wildfire), and small habatchis/charcoal grills. These are for outdoor use only.
• To build a camp fire –
  • Select a sheltered spot protected from wind gusts. Remember there will be sparks floating upwards, so be careful.
  • Clear a space and put rocks around the space where the fire is to be built. Do not use rocks that have been in water (streams, lakes, etc.). When the fire gets hot, they may explode.
  • Gather wood (as dry as you can get). Avoid green/living wood. Wet wood often has a dry core of material that can be used as kindling. The outer wood can be dried over the fire and burned eventually.
  • Stack away from fire pit with sticks/logs in piles roughly by diameter. If wet, stack wood closer to fire to partially dry out.
  • Separate out really small diameter pieces (twigs and sticks) to: 1) build a small teepee open on one side and 2) add when fire first gets going.
  • Shave off a pile of wood chips. Place them inside the teepee. You can add other tinder (dry grass, small bits of bark, paper, cotton balls soaked in wax). Leave plenty of space for air to get in. No air, no fire. Have extra.
  • Magnesium fire starter bars will start fires even out of wet material. Shave off a few small shavings onto tinder then strike with knife on striker bar to get sparks. Other good devices are waterproof matches and cigarette lighters.

Storage guidelines -

• The lower the temperature and the less the humidity, the longer the items stored will keep. Keep storage temperature at least under 70 degrees F.
• For every 10 degrees F above 70, you reduce your storage life by half. For every 10 degrees F under 70, you double your storage life.
• Note that 3 to 4 feet under ground the temperature is 50 – 55 degrees F all year round.
• Do not eat from containers that are rusted, bulging, or dented.
• Secure containers up off floor from flooding, vermin, and insects.
• Metal containers lined with a plastic bag are best. Bulk grains usually come in 5 gal. plastic buckets (with liners).
• Stack buckets and containers so it’s easy to inspect them regularly. It would be a good idea to allow a cat or two to have free access to your storage area.
• If placing bulk items like grains in buckets at home, remove as much oxygen and moisture as possible. Oxygen can be removed by forcing it up and out by heavier gases like nitrogen and carbon dioxide (by placing dry ice in the bucket). This will also kill insects. Close bucket with a tight fitting lid.
• There is a tool at Emergency Essentials that makes removing the lids much easier when you want to get into them.
• Select a variety of foods and storage methods.
• Storage methods include -

• Commercial cans, i.e. “wet pack”, stores for 6 months to 2 years. Bulk (restaurant) sized cans are cheaper per serving.
• Home canning in mason jars for fruits, vegetables, and meat. Stores for two years and more – perhaps much more. You can grow your own food or buy “extra”. You don’t have to have a large garden to do canning. There are many roadside stands, farmers’ markets, and neighbors with extra.
• Home dehydrating (usually solar) and smoking. After you remove the water, vacuum seal, and store.
• To save meats in your freezer from spoiling if you lose power – make jerky. See Dr. John Raven’s excellent article “Jerky: It’s not just for Christmas anymore” on the basics of making jerky at: www.texascooking.com/features/dec2002makingjerky.htm
• A summary of Dr. Raven’s steps to make jerky:

• Cut meat into thin strips (roughly ¼” thick, ½” wide, and 6” long - removing extra fat.
• Marinate (using his quick-cook or cold method) and/or season with salt, pepper, spices, chili powder, sauces, etc. – use your imagination. Flavor to your taste.
• Place on racks (or hang), separating each piece.
• Keep temperature at 140 degrees F for 6 to 8 hours in a smoker or an oven (keep oven door cracked open).
• Hanging in sun will take several days (cover with cheesecloth to keep insects off) and bringing inside at night.
• Jerky is done when blackened - and when bent will crack but not break.
• Place in baggies and/or vacuum seal.
• Commercial Freeze Dried Foods. Usually in large #10 cans or pouches (often called MREs – Meals Ready to Eat). Stores for 5 to 10 years. Tests suggest much longer shelf life.
• Commercially packed bulk grains (and vegetable seeds) in 5 gallon buckets (or #10 cans). Stores for 5 to 10 years. Tests suggest much longer. You’ll need to have a hand powered grain mill.
• Irradiated foods. Controversial. Canadian irradiated milk will stay good for two years on the shelf without refrigeration.
• Unless you have a generator, solar photo voltaic, wind turbine or other means of producing electricity, do not depend on a refrigerator or freezers to store a lot of food.
  • Once the temperature in a refrigerator rises above 40 degrees F the food starts spoiling. You have four (4) hours to save it.
  • Without power, freezers will only keep food for several days at very best. Chest type freezers where the cold air can’t drain out will keep food frozen for several days without power - if kept closed except for very brief openings once or twice a day.
  • Use dry ice. Twenty-five pounds of dry ice will keep a 10-cubic-foot chest type freezer below freezing for 3-4 days. Use care when handling dry ice. Wear dry, heavy gloves to avoid frostbite.
  • Generators may be run for short periods of time to provide power for freezers and refrigerators. Fuel storage longer than 4 to 6 months may be a problem without additives.
  • There are refrigerators and freezers which run on propane and/or natural gas – including refrigerators in RVs.

A final note for home disaster preparedness, you can extend your food supplies in a more sustainable and self-sufficient manner as follows -

• Learn the wild foods in your area. Harvesting will stretch your supplies.
  • Many look like weeds.
  • Some like cattails will surprise you. (The pollen is a flour extender. The roots are best edible in early spring. Cattails filter out harmful pollutants and are safe to eat even growing in polluted water.)

• You can grow your own food (fruits, berries, nuts, vegetables, herbs (including medicinal), grains, chickens, ducks, catfish, tilapa, rabbits, pigs, goats/sheep, etc.) and that is always a plus – particularly with all of the contamination, chemicals, toxic additives, and hormones that we are finding in commercial products (domestic and foreign).

• Ecology Action (http://www.growbiointensive.org/) can show you how to grow all the calories an adult needs for a year in as little as 800 square feet.
  • They can show you how to turn rock dust into rich organic soil in 7 years – 60 times faster than nature. John Jeavens and his crew (based in Willits, CA) have been doing this over 35 years in over 140 countries.
  • John Jeavens’ book “How to Grow More Vegetables, Fruits, and Nuts than you thought possible” (2007 edition) is a must have.

• Include seeds for growing vegetables. Usually in vacuum packed containers which last 5 – 10 years.
  • Hybrid seed have higher rate of germination, but will not breed true if you save seeds from the plants you grow.
  • Modern hybrids usually produce a larger crop and are more resistant to diseases and blight.
  • Open pollinated or heirloom seeds are older varieties which always breed true and produce the same qualities/taste.
  • Many open pollinated breeds are more tasteful than modern hybrids.

Preparedness Part 5 – Water Management Considerations

Preparedness Part 5 – Water Management Considerations

Don Hodge for 4^thTriage
In collaboration with Will Stewart  

10/14/2010 11:29 a10/p10

Although it may seem strange, your water management starts with sanitation.


Improper sanitation will contaminate your water supply. That can kill you - and your community. Conversely, members of your community can spread disease and wipe out your family through improper sanitation. Here are a couple basics to keep in mind during the disaster and the recovery period.

• Toilets will flush themselves when you are urinating, but require some water for bowel movements.
  
  • Country rules – if it’s yellow let it mellow; if it’s brown flush it down.
    
  • A couple of bricks in the toilet tank will reduce water usage when flushing.
    
  • Fill tank with “gray” water (used already for washing), from waterbeds (contaminated by chemicals), or possible contaminated water.
    
  • If you can, don’t use drinkable water to fill tank.
  • You can also use a 3-5 gallon bucket to pour directly into the bowl to flush. This requires some practice to avoid obvious overflow.
    
    
• If you can’t use house sewage/septic system, don’t risk contaminating the water supply with human waste. Deposit waste well away from water supplies. Remember, rain happens – and stuff flows downhill!
• 5 gal. plastic buckets can be used to make a field potty.
  
  • Form a seat by taping together a number of cardboard pieces and cutting a hole in the center.
    
  • Place a garbage bag inside a paper bag. Place both inside bucket.
    
  • After use, sprinkle bleach in bucket.
    
  • When bag is partly full – don’t overfill so bag bursts – remove and place in leak proof container.
    
  • Put container in a place where it won’t be knocked over. Place as far away from living and eating areas as practical.
    
  • Protect from rain and flooding so you don’t allow waste to contaminate rivers, streams, and/or community water supply.
    
• If you must dig a latrine pit, avoid low spots, dig 12”-18” deep, and locate away from sleeping/living areas. If possible, protect from rain and/or flooding.

Guidelines for managing Water –

• VERY IMPORTANT, drink only water that you know is not contaminated.
• In addition to having a bad odor and taste, contaminated water can contain microorganisms (giardia, etc.) that cause diseases such as dysentery, cholera, typhoid, and hepatitis.
  
• Treat all water of uncertain quality before using it for drinking, food washing or preparation, washing dishes, brushing teeth, or making ice.
  
• Safe sources
  
  • Captured rainwater. Preferably collected in an establish storage system. If not, be sure your collection containers are chemical free.
    
  • Melted ice-cubes.
    
  • Water drained from an undamaged water heater.
    
  • Water drained from household pipes.
    
  • Any tubs or containers you filled before/as the disaster hit.
  • Commercially bottled water and water stored in your disaster kit.
  • Liquids from canned goods - such as fruits or vegetables.
    
• Un-safe - possibly contaminated sources
  
  • Rivers, streams, ponds, lakes
    
  • Home radiators, hot water boilers (home heating system)
    
  • Water beds (fungicides added to the water or chemicals in the vinyl may make water unsafe to drink)
    
  • Water from the toilet bowl or flush tank
    
  • Swimming pools and spas (chemicals used to kill germs are too concentrated for safe drinking but can be used for personal hygiene, cleaning, and related uses)
    
• Hot temperatures may double the 1 gal./day normal minimum needs per person.
• Allow people to drink according to their needs.
  
• Never ration water unless ordered to do so by authorities.
• Do not drink carbonated beverages instead of drinking water. They de-hydrate you causing you to need more water.
• If you hear reports of broken water/sewage lines or if local officials advise you of a problem, turn off the main water valve to your house. You will need to protect the water sources already in your home from contamination.
• To use the water in your pipes, let air into the plumbing by turning on the faucet in your home at the highest level. A small amount of water will trickle out. Then obtain water from the lowest faucet in the home.
  
• To use the water in your hot-water tank, be sure the electricity or gas is off, and open the drain at the bottom of the tank. Start the water flowing by turning off the water intake valve at the tank and turning on the hot water faucet. Refill the tank before turning the gas or electricity back on.
  

Water treatment methods.

There are many ways to treat water. None is perfect. Often the best solution is a combination of methods. Before treating, let any suspended particles settle to the bottom or strain them through coffee filters or layers of clean cloth.

NOTE: there are many, relatively cheap, water purification devices (like those from Katadyn, MSR, PUR, and First Needs) in backpacking stores or online ( REI.com , cabelas.com , etc. ). These devices are lite-weight and more precious than gold.

Make sure you have the necessary materials in your disaster kit for your chosen water treatment method.

Boiling method of water treatment

• In a large pot or kettle, bring water to a rolling boil for 1 full minute, keeping in mind that some water will evaporate. Let the water cool before drinking.
• Boiled water will taste better if you put oxygen back into it by pouring the water back and forth between two clean containers. This also will improve the taste of stored water.

Chlorination method of water treatment

• Use only regular household liquid bleach that contains 5.25 to 6.0 percent sodium hypochlorite. Do not use scented bleaches, color safe bleaches, or bleaches with added cleaners. Use bleach from a newly opened or unopened bottle since the potency of bleach diminishes with time.
• Use a medicine dropper set aside for this and only this.
• Add 16 drops (1/8 teaspoon) of the bleach per gallon of water (or 8 drops to a two-litter bottle), stir, and let stand for 30 minutes. The water should have a slight bleach odor. If it doesn’t, then repeat the dosage and let stand another 15 minutes. If it still does not smell of chlorine, discard it and find another source of water
  
• Other chemicals, such as iodine or water treatment products sold in camping or surplus stores that do not contain 5.25 to 6.0 percent sodium hypochlorite as the only active ingredient are not recommended.

Distillation method of water treatment

• While the two methods described above will kill most microbes in water, distillation will remove microbes that resist these methods, heavy metals, salts, and most other chemicals.
• Distillation involves boiling water and then collecting only the vapor that condenses.
  
  • To distill, fill a pot halfway with water – strained to remove dirt, twigs, leaves, etc.
    
  • Tie a cup to the handle on the pot's lid so that the cup will hang right-side-up when the lid is upside-down (make sure the cup is not dangling into the water)
  • Boil the water for 20 minutes. The water that drips from the covering into the collection container is distilled.
    
  • This method uses a lot of fuel. Try to use what you have most of – usually wood.
    
• A second, much slower method of distilling is the solar still.
  • You place a container in the ground. This could be a sheet of plastic.
    
  • Place water in your container.
    
  • You will need a collection system around the outside of the water.
    
  • You place a plastic (and transparent) tent-like covering over the water.
    
  • Secure the ends of your ‘tent’ over your collection container(s) so that distilled droplets will run down the plastic into those containers.
    
  • Collect distilled water when polluted water has evaporated. Refill as needed.

Preparedness Part 3 – Basic Kit Considerations

Preparedness Part 3 – Basic Kit Considerations

Don Hodge for 4^thTriage
In collaboration with Will Stewart  

10/14/2010 11:27 a10/p10

Many items you will need are already in your home. Additional supplies can be built up bit-by-bit. When you buy two items, buy a third for your kit. Label all consumable items with the date purchased. Consumables are meant to be consumed before they perish. So rotate your stored items (and, of course, use the oldest items first). Replace non-commercially bottled water every 4 to 6 months. You want to store things that you will eat. Do not disregard this. I did not believe that people would starve rather than eat unfamiliar foods either. At least I didn’t until a week long church canoe trip and I met oatmeal breakfasts. The French riots and their revolution were caused because the weather had persistently destroyed the grains that they were use to eating. Potatoes were available but the French people would not eat them. Make sure what you are storing is what you will eat. The best way to insure that you will eat it is to get your meals from what you are storing in the pantry. Also that means you’ll never waste the money you’ve spent on this part of your disaster preparedness.


You will actually have two kits. One is an evacuation kit. Build your evacuation kit first. The other will be for staying put, a non-evacuation kit. The basic difference is that for staying home there is a much greater amount of food, water, large pieces of equipment, and countless small items you can’t take with you if you have to leave. This makes your life much more comfortable during a disaster. An excellent source for most items’ shelf life and quantities used by adults, children, and infants is “Making The Best Of Basics” by James Talmage Stevens. Full of info about storage dos and don’ts, the long-term food basics – wheat, honey, salt, and powdered milk – and recipes for them. A must have book.

Basic Kit Guidelines:

(check http://www.fema.gov/plan/prepare/basickit.shtm )

• Water
  
  • Store at least 1 gallon/day for each person.
    
  • The amount of water needed per person in very hot temperatures can easily double.
    
  • Choose two-liter plastic (glass breaks) soft drink bottles (2 bottles are almost a gal.) and not containers that have had fruit juice or milk in them. Fruit sugars and milk protein cannot be completely removed from these containers. When water is stored in them, it provides an environment for bacterial growth.
    
  • Clean containers and caps with dishwashing soap and water. Rinse completely so there is no residual soap. Create a sanitizing solution by adding 1 teaspoon of non-scented, liquid household chlorine bleach (with 5.25 to 6.0% sodium hypochlorite) to a quart of water. Swish solution in the bottle so that it touches all surfaces. Rinse out thoroughly with clean water.
    
  • Fill container to top. Use regular tap water. If the water is from a water utility (that uses chlorine), you don’t need to add anything else.
    
  • If the water comes from a private well or other water source that is not treated with chlorine, add eight drops of non-scented, liquid household chlorine bleach (with 5.25 to 6.0% sodium hypochlorite) to the 2-liter bottle.
    
  • Close the container using the original cap. Don’t touch the inside of the cap as that would contaminate the water.
    
  • Place a date on the outside of the container so that you know when you filled it. Store in a cool, dark place. Replace the water every four to six months if not using commercially bottled water.
  • Field Expedient Water storage can be made by doubling large trash bags and using doubled pillow cases to carry them. Remember water is 8 pounds to the gallon.
    
  • See Part 5 - Water Management Considerations.
    
• Food
  
  • Be sure to include several manual can opener(s), cooking pot(s), and large spoons or dippers. Preferably stainless steel or cast iron.
  • Evacuation kit guiding principles for food:
    
    • Select foods that require no refrigeration, can be prepared with a minimum of water and without cooking.
      
    • Avoid foods that will dehydrate and/or make you thirsty.
      
    • Select items that are lightweight and compact.
      
    • MREs (Meals Ready to Eat) and backpacking food pouches are long lasting, light weight, offer wide variety, are quite tasty, and are cheap enough for an evacuation kit.
      
    • Chose canned foods with high liquid content.
      
  • Include selections of each category (especially in the evacuation kit) –
    
    • Pre-cooked canned meats and stews
      
    • Canned vegetables, and fruits – with a lot of liquid in cans
      
    • Canned juices, milk, soup (if powdered, store extra water)
      
    • Staples - sugar, salt, pepper, chili and curry powders, packets of mustard & ketchup, tabasco sauce, other hot sauces
      
    • High energy foods - peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola bars, trail mix, bouillon cubes, honey (honey can also sterilize cuts) – do not feed honey to children under one (1) year
    • Instant coffee, tea bags, coco
      
    • Vitamins
      
    • Foods for infants, elderly persons or persons with special dietary needs 
      
    • Comfort/stress foods - cookies, hard candy, sweetened cereals, lollipops, chocolate
      
  • When outdoors, do not store food where you sleep (bears and other animals are attracted to it). Pick a spot away from camp to throw a rope over a tree limb and haul the food up 10’ – 15’ off the ground
  • See Part 6 - Food Management Considerations.
    
• Medical and First Aid supplies
  
  • Approach stocking first aid kits from these points of view:
    
    • In a disaster and afterwards, traveling to medical facilities and treatment may be difficult AND/OR imposible.
    • With disasters stress levels are elevated. You may be traveling. You can count on more accidents and injuries. Without treatment those injuries may fester and get worse rapidly.
      
    • During the evacuation (3 days plus a couple days when you first reach your destination), what happens if you run out of medical supplies?
      
    • If staying home and you could not get to medical treatment for one month (or more), would you have enough supplies to treat all of your family members a number of times?
      
  • Take basic first aid and CPR classes. You may have to be your family’s doctor.
    
  • An excellent text for evaluation and treatment is: “Where There Is No Doctor, a village healthcare handbook” by David Werner
  • Veterinarians, in disasters, are required to treat people before treating animals.
    
  • Assemble a first aid kit for your home and one for each vehicle.
  • A first aid kit should include the following (NOTE: bump up quantities for a home kit and to meet your family’s situation) –
    
    • Steri-Strips (for closing wounds without using stitches), sterile adhesive bandages in assorted sizes, 2-inch sterile gauze pads (12), 4-inch sterile gauze pads (12), ½” hypoallergenic adhesive tape (2 rolls), elastic bandages for wrapping sprains (2-3), Triangular bandages (3), 2-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls) and 3-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls)
      
    • Some of the best dressings for trauma are maxi pads. Tampons are good for plugging gunshot and deep puncture wounds.
      
    • Scissors, tweezers, assorted sizes of safety pins, needles, thermometer, tongue depressor blades (6)
      
    • Antibiotics, Insulin, and other non-restricted drugs can be purchased online at websites like New England Serum Company ( www.newenglandserumcompany.com ).
      
    • Some general oral antibiotics are a good addition to your kit. Once you start taking them, you usually must take them for over a week – and well after you start feeling better. If you quit too soon, whatever it was will come roaring back. Dicuss what antibiotics and HOW TO USE THEM with your family doctor.
    • Antiseptic (like Neosporin®) gels and sprays, toothache gel such as Orajel®, quickskin, petroleum jelly or other lubricant, cleansing agent/soap, moistened towelettes, betadine or providone iodine pads, sunscreen, sunburn cream/spray and/or aloe
      
    • QuadraBloc™ discs (http://www.quadrabloc.com/) for pain control and relief. Developed by Vanderbilt University doctors and marketed by Amway (for several hundreds of million dollars in sales) from 1998 through April 30, 2008 when the exclusive licenses ended. This is the most effective magnetic treatment I know of and usually relieves pain within 5 to 10 minutes. Do NOT places discs near pacemakers, internal pumps, or other internal electronics.
    • NON-PRESCRIPTION DRUGS - aspirin or non-aspirin pain reliever, ethyl chloride spry, chemically activated cold or hot packs, antacid (for stomach upset), Syrup of Ipecac (use to induce vomiting) and activated charcoal (use either if advised to do so by the Poison Control Center), laxative, anti-diarrhea medication
      
    • Moleskin or blister patches for your feet, hands or whatever.
      
    • Snake bite kit (found in backpacking and sporting goods stores)
      
    • Latex gloves (12-24 pairs)
      
    • A basic first aid manual can be obtained from the Red Cross.
      
  • Any PRESCRIPTION DRUGS – best kept as a separate kit which is always with you and easy to grab if evacuating
    
• Clothing, bedding, and sanitation supplies
  
  • Your house, if safe (from flooding, winds, wildfire, etc.), will provide you better shelter than anything you could build outdoors. It will shield you from sun and rain in the summer; storms, wind, snow and cold in the winter. You can close off parts of the house and heat only a few rooms by hanging blankets in the doorways.
    
  • Wind, rain, and snow can kill you – quickly. Hypothermia can start when your core body temperature drops to 92 – 93 degrees F. It distorts your judgment and confuses you.
    • Alcohol does not warm the body in freezing temperatures.
      
    • Hypothermia and frostbite require warm liquids and soups.
      
    • Apply warm packs (wrapped in cloth) under each armpit and in groin region.
      
    • You lose 40% of your heat through your head.
      
    • Keeping your chest and torso warm allows your body to function and staves off hypothermia.
      
  • Wool and synthetic insulation retains heat even when soaking wet. Cotton and down/feather insulation when wet does not and drains heat from your body.
  • Include at least one extra complete change of clothing and footwear per person in your evacuation kit including -
    • Coat or jacket
      
    • Long pants
      
    • Long sleeve shirt
      
    • Hiking boots, sturdy shoes or work boots
      
    • 2 pairs of cotton or wool socks and 1 pair nylon or silk socks (to put over regular socks) (helps prevent blisters)
      
    • 2 pairs of underwear shorts and tee-shirts
      
    • Hat, wool cap, gloves, bandana, scarf
      
    • Rain gear (or a large garbage/leaf bag worn as a poncho)
      
    • Thermal underwear, cold weather clothing in season
      
  • Extra jackets, coats, shirts, and pants can be found in second hand stores, Good Will, Salvation Army, and thrift stores very cheaply.
    
  • Spacebags.com greatly reduces storage space by using a vacuum cleaner (with hose) to remove the air in the bag and shrink its size.
  • Waterproof boots and comfortable sturdy footgear. Extra socks.
  • Sleeping bags, waterproof bivy sack for outside of bag, blankets (wool if you can get them), space blankets, plastic sheeting for ground/drop cloth (to keep ground moisture away or rain runoff from entering tent), tarp(s), tube tents, and 2-6 person dome tents
    
  • Sunglasses and extra eye glasses (keep old pairs for backup) – even if you are currently using contacts
    
  • Sanitation
    
    • Extremely important. Medical treatment and drugs may be in short supply. Poor sanitation could wipe out a community.
    • Toilet paper
      
    • Kleenex® or handkerchiefs
      
    • Soap, liquid detergent, laundry soap
      
    • Feminine supplies
      
    • Personal hygiene items, towels, washcloths
      
    • Plastic garbage/leaf bags with ties, large paper bags
      
    • 5 gal. plastic buckets make a field potty with garbage bags inside.
      
      • Tape a number of cardboard pieces together and cut a hole in the center for a seat.
        
      • Place garbage bag inside of a paper bag and then place both inside the bucket.
        
      • After use, sprinkle with bleach.
        
      • When bag is partly full – don’t overfill so bag bursts – remove and place in leak proof container.
        
      • Protect filled bags from rain and flooding so you don’t allow waste to contaminate the water supply.
        
    • If you must dig a latrine pit, avoid low spots, dig 12”-18” deep, and locate well away from sleeping/living areas. AND DOWN STREAM FROM WATER FLOW and Water Table
      
    • Disinfectant
      
    • Household chlorine bleach
      
    • Rubber gloves
      
• Tools
  
  • Bronze, non-sparking shutoff wrench for household gas
    
  • Flashlight and extra batteries (the new battery-less, shaker types which generate their own electricity are best), lightsticks, 100-hour candles, coleman lanterns and fuel, small lightbulbs (from inside a vehicle - glove compartment, dome lights, tail lights) can be run off a car battery or off a bicycle generator (lift back wheel off ground, prop between two chairs, peddle – the trickle charge of 2 or 3 bicycle generators can even re-charge the car battery – be sure to disconnect battery when not in use or recharging to avoid draining the battery)
    
  • Solar battery re-charger, rechargeable batteries
    
  • Portable, battery-operated radio and extra batteries, survival radios powered by battery-solar-hand-crank combos
    
  • Sturdy walking stick (at least 3’ to 4’, able to support your weight)
    
  • Knifes (sheaf and folding), multitool (such as Leatherman®, Gerber®, etc.), ax or hatchet, small shovel, hand saw, pliers, hammer, nails
  • Duct tape, rope (at least 50’), twine or small rope for lashing things together, wire (coat hangers can be unwound by pliers)
    
  • Carabiners (used in mountain climbing and canoeing to secure items and ropes), backpacking straps (used to secure extra gear to packs and duffle bags
    
  • Mess kits, cups, plates, utensils. manual can openers, metal pot(s) (preferably stainless steel, not aluminum), there is a tool sold by Emergency Essentials that makes taking off the lids of 5 gal. buckets much easier.
  • Matches in a waterproof container, waterproof matches, cigarette lighters, magnesium fire starters, a small amount of kindling or cotton balls soaked with wax
    
  • DO NOT START FIRES WITH GASOLINE
    
  • For evacuation backpacker’s multi-fuel stoves (like Peak® ), small habachi or small grill with charcoal/sterno, Coleman stoves
    
  • Larger grills (propane or charcoal) are handy in household situations but not normally practical in evacuations.
    
  • Fire extinguishers: small canister, ABC type. Also a box of baking soda. When it burns, it produces CO2 which will put out an ABC fire. Get several boxs.
    
  • Aluminum foil, garbage bags, plastic sheeting (rolls of 10 mm and 2 mm), storage containers/bottles/baggies
    
  • Compass, map of the area (for locating shelters and evacuation routes), paper, pencil
    
  • Whistle(s), signal flares, signal mirror, road flares
    
  • Needles and thread, medicine dropper
    
  • Emergency Preparedness manual
    
• Special needs
  
  • For needs of babies see: http://www.fema.gov/plan/prepare/specialkit.shtm
  • Medications
    
  • Denture needs
    
  • Contact lenses and supplies, extra eye glasses in hard cases
    
  • Hearing aid batteries
    
  • Important documents –
    
    • Keep records together ready to evacuate in a waterproof container – or in your wallet
      
    • Laminate where appropriate
      
    • Photo IDs, passports, social security cards, and immunization records
      
    • Will, insurance policies, contracts, deeds, stocks and bonds
      
    • A list of bank account numbers, credit card account numbers (and companies which supplied them)
      
    • A written/printed list of important telephone numbers
      
    • An inventory of valuable household goods
      
    • Family records (birth, marriage, death certificates)
      
    • Photocopies of credit and identification cards
      
  • Some cash, traveler's checks, and coins (especially rolls of quarters, dimes, and nickels)
    
  • Entertainment items, games, cards, books
    
• Security
  
  • If you choose to carry weapons or firearms, you must keep tight control on your emotions. Human life is very precious. Fear and anger are not excuses. Don’t make a bad situation worse. You will be held accountable for your actions later.
  • That said, it doesn’t make sense to do all that work to save your life and your family’s from a disaster, then let them be murdered.